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The oldest dedicated instrument making site on the Web. Huge but now aging library of archived, edited
threads, as well as various files and other resources. Access to the MIMF's WFRET software for creating fret
board templates is reason enough to register. A few of the more recognizable names in custom building post
here. Experts/regulars are allowed great latitude in behavior; newbies are on a tight leash with the
omni-present Deb acting as judge, jury, and executioner...you'll get a warning, but not two. Read the FAQs
before posting, as the site is scattered with behavioral land mines re: what can and cannot be said, linked to,
and even discussed via post or email. For all that, the place has charm, with it's older forum software and
small town feel. A good place to go to learn the basics, despite the frequent refrain of 'Use the Library!' as
the first answer to any question.
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The best thing about the site is a strong cultural bias towards assisting neophytes, versus simply directing
them to the search function. The worst thing about the site is a tendency to forego critical discussion and
debate in the name of getting along, although that seems to be getting a little better as of Fall 2009. Despite
my misgivings over some of the ways in which the site has changed as it has grown, the OLF is still one of the
best beginner/intermediate builder experiences on the Web. Several of the top names in custom guitars post
here, as well as a large number of overseas-based folks. If you can wade through what is a very high daily
post volume, you'll find a huge number of talented, intelligent folks that will help you succeed with early
projects. Focused on acoustics, but with growing electric traffic and even posts on Weissenborn-style
guitars...unusual but nice.
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Bob Connor's Down Under-based site - same feel as the older version of the OLF, but a little less moderation
and longer running threads...not just for the Aussies and Kiwis - everyone is welcome. I suspect this site will
thrive, and provide a needed respite from other larger, more corporate operations. Growing content, but
nothing close to the bigger sites...yet.
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William Cumpiano (C&N) and several other familiar names post here, and if you can get by the constant email
sales pitches for the site owner's wood auctions and the eclectic (read: confusing) site design and
organization, Luthier Forum can have a lot to offer, including online building courses and regular build-alongs.
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You'll have to deal with the delicate egos of a dozen or so 'name' custom or small factory builders, as well as a
low post volume (read: limited beginner content), but there is some very open and spirited debate here not
allowed on other sites. One of the few sites with a dedicated repair forum, 13th Fret is worth lurking for
beginners, but try not to offer any sweeping opinions before you've been advertising in Acoustic Guitar a while
and wowed the crowds at a major show. Even then, bring a change of flame-proof undergarments.
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Like 13th Fret, limited posts and limited content in what is intended as an adjunct to the magazine versus a
stand-alone builder's site. Also like 13th Fret, the Luthier's Corner is moderated by some of the bigger names
in custom building, repair, or small factory production. Because questions are often received from
non-builders hoping to remedy a problem, the site is not a bad place for beginning builders to lurk to pick up
the terminology and broad issues of interest to today's hobby or custom builders.
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Luthiery Suppliers on the Web
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Stewart MacDonald
Guitar Supply
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The place to go for parts and tools for luthiery.
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The place to go for wood and hard-to-find parts like high-end classical tuners
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High Mountain
Tonewood
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Shane Neifer cuts, mills and sells Lutz spruce and Western Red Cedar - both premiere top woods - as well as
carries a wide range of other guitarmaking essentials. Located in BC, Canada, shipping to the lower 48 is
worth the wait for what is becoming my favorite spruce.
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Beautiful, well-quartered cocobolo is a specialty, and the help does not get any better than Andrew.
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Great radius dishes, jigs, and shop aids from a great outfit. Check out Tracy's neck profile guides, which will
go a long way towards avoiding those clunky, squared off necks which are so common on first efforts.
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John Hall supplies anything from tuner screws to complete kits for just about any guitar shape made by Martin,
Taylor, or Gibson. John also makes and sells a wide range of jigs, fixtures, and tools, as well as conducts
building classes for neophytes to more experienced builders looking to up their inlay skills. While John is the
guitarmaker and repairman, his wife Brenda keeps the guitar supply side of the business humming
along...another family business success story.
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While billing themselves as a Baltimore, MD-based violin supply, International carries hundreds of
guitar-related items. One of the local stops for me, this family-run business has no problem with you cruising
by to personally select the best tops from a recent shipment, or hand-pick purfling strips for a new project.
Absolutely the best prices on a number of common items...I buy all of my linings there (when I run out of
homemade), and most of my European spruce.
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Where to find the best luthiery stuff...or at least in my opinion the best...
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The 5 ounce Stanley Dead Blow hammer has been a luthier's secret for years, and SM has finally produced
one with a brass face specifically for fret work. Despite my love for almost all things StewMac, the Stanley
original is still the better tool for me, and a little cheaper than SM's offering.
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The Lie Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Block plane is the first plane that an aspiring luthier should buy. While
there are less expensive planes available, the L-N is so much better than the offerings from Lee Valley or
Stanley that it's worth skipping lattes for a few weeks to get the scratch together
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This stuff does not have to be complex...buy the L-N sharpening kit, then add a DMT Duo-Sharp
Coarse/Extra-Coarse diamond combo stone. The diamond stone will keep the waterstones flat, as well as
knocking off the old edge prior to honing. If you can't afford a low speed or wet grinder to regrind the primary
bevel when necessary, the DMT will handle that as well. In addition to my Diamond/waterstone sharpening
video on YouTube, there are sharpening vids by Deneb Pulchalski on the YouTube Lie-Nielsen channel.
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Luthier Tool Company has the best solution for folks that want a ready-made solution for milling slotheads -
both steel string and classical.
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Cutting Edge Technologies carries a complete range of decimal, fractional, and metric micro end mills. I use
these mills for all my inlay and rosette work, and at $5 per for the small fractionals, you can afford to buy 3-4
bits at a time. In sizes under 1/8" diameter, down-cut bits cease to have much of an advantage in producing a
clean cut, so the two flute carbide mills do a fine job for a great price.
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John Hall has been making these jigs; however, DEW Guitars, Don William's site, has enough info to make
one of these from scratch. An alternative is to buy a set of plans from Luthier's Cool Tools and build from
them. The main link here is to the Luthier's Cool Tools sales page for plans.
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While the Hold-Heet glue pot is the best of the best for hide glue and potting pickups, the $13 Rival Hot Pot is
a great way to get started without a big investment. I'll link to an article on modifying this pot for guitar work,
but until that's done, here's a link to a thread on the OLF concerning inexpensive glue pots.
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The Bosch Colt is the successor to the PC Model 310 (now out of production) as the best small router for
luthiers. With soft start, vertical micro adjust, and enough power to handle any standard 1/4" shank bit for
jig-making, the Bosch can handle most jobs in the shop with ease.
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John Hall at Blues Creek is the MAN...need to know how a Norman Blake 000 is braced? He'll send you a
tracing set with body plane, bracing layout, center of sound hole, saddle location, and a side pattern for less
than what I would charge for postage and paper.
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Once again, John Hall at Blues Creek is the guy...want a 00 cutaway with a 12 fret neck (mini-Norman Blake)?
John can do that. Drop him an email describing what you want/need/desire, then stand back and let him work.
For dreadnought, OM/000, and 000 12 fret kits, also look at StewMac and LMII.
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Veritas? Heck no...too complicated and too expensive. The $10 Eclipse-style side clamping jig is the way to
go. Look for Lie-Nielsen to offer a remastered version of this jig at some point in the future, but the import will
do a fine job for 1/5 of the cost of one of those pricey jigs. The wheel is wide enough to keep a chisel edge
square, while also allowing enough tilt to hone in the slight radius called for on bench planes. Check out Joel's
other offerings, including the Gramercy line of saws and rasps.
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I'd love to send you to a site with cheap prices on Starrett rules, but Ebay is the best bet. You might start by
picking up a 6" flexible satin chrome Starrett C316R rule (1/32", 1/64", 1/50th", 1/100th" graduations), then
follow up with a 12" and 24" rule for layout and fret work. Steel string builder generally work in thousandths of
an inch and classical builders in mm...it's worth picking up rules for both to avoid measurement errors. In
terms of graduation schemes, a 4R has 8th, 16th, 32nd, and 64th grads, while 5R has 32nds, 64th, 10ths,
and 100ths. The 16R is the most useful rule in my shop, although I keep a Bridge City EES/MKS rule with end
graduations handy to set bit heights, etc.
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Sylvan Wells and Tony Karol collaborated on this jig, which takes a laminate trimmer and gives it adjustability
of .002" for routing circular channels. If you've been using a Dremel-based jig, you're in for a nice surprise.
Although Sylvan now charges for access to his luthiery articles (including the precision router base article), it's
worth the cost, with very complete instructions on how to build the jig from commonly available hardware and
some 3/4" UHMW-PE. Lots of other articles of interest to builders, including hemispherical fretting.
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A High Speed Steel (HHS) chucking straight flute reamer is the best tool I've found to reopen tuner holes after
finishing. I use a .251 diameter reamer for slotheads and a 10mm reamer for Gotoh and other tuners which
need a constant diameter hole. You can spend the money for carbide, but the HHS lasts for hundreds of
guitars and is under $17 for the US-made 0.251 and under $25 for the US-made 10mm reamer. The .251
reamer is also handy for finishing the holes in the parallel arm assembly on the Williams Binding Jig mentioned
above.
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Although I cannot bring myself to spend the $2000 necessary to become a Tanex hide glue distributor for the
US (the order is a little pricey), the Milligan and Higgins high clarity 192g glue from Joel is nearly as nice, and
is readily available in 1 lb and 5 lb bags. I also like Joel's glue brushes better than any other I've used,
although I only use them for bridge plate, bridge, and a few other larger jobs.
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Best price on the best glue pot around - get the 1 quart version with a copper liner if you are looking for real
durability. Don't bother buying the Behlens hide glue here - same M&H high clarity that Joel sells, only
marked up to over $10/lb versus Joel's price of about $6.20/lb in 5 lb lots.
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